Testaccio is a lively area full of restaurants, delicatessens and one of the liveliest food markets in the city. It was traditionally a working class area but in recent years has become gentrified due to its excellect location close to many historic monuments and being just across the river from Trastevere.
Things to see in Testaccio
The pyramid
You don't need to go to Eygpt to see an ancient pyramid. Standing 90 feet tall, Rome's pyramid was built in 12 B.C. as a tomb for the Roman Gaius Cestius, after the Cleopatra and Mark Antony scandal brought exotic Egyptian styles into vogue. Later the pyramid was incorporated into Rome's city wall
Testaccio market
The covered market at Testaccio occupies the central area of the piazza. Lined with butchers, grocers and fishmongers, the whole central area is given over to fruit and vegetables. Very popular with local residents, it offers super-fresh, high-quality produce and reasonable prices. Much of this market's charm for visitors lies in its compact size and relaxed, friendly atmosphere.
Places to eat in Testaccio
Checchino dal 1887
Via di Monte Testaccio 30
Tel. 06-5746318
Romans have been flocking to Checchino dal 1887 since the early 19th century for fun and hearty food. With a bountiful array of wine and foodstuffs, every meal seems like a party. The tables are packed nightly, and the place is a local legend. You'll have fun while still enjoying some of the best cuisine in town.
Trattoria Da “Oio” a Casa Mia
Via Galvani, 43-45
Tel. 06.57.82.680
This small restaurant, only a few blocks from the marvelous Testaccio food market, is a fine, if not famous place to eat the “fifth quarter” specialties. What I will always return for, however, is the fabulously rich spaghetti alla carbonara. It’s a hard choice, though: Also excellent are the tonnarelli cacio e pepe – thick, spaghetti-length pasta with pecorino and pepper, the rigatoni all’Amatriciana, and, for those who do, indeed, like offal, the rigatoni with pajata -- intestines. They are not nearly as funky as you would imagine, or perhaps even wish they were. A very stylish crowd has discovered this small, unprepossessing trattoria, and they dote, too, on the roast baby lamb, the Roman-style chicken alla cacciatora, which is chicken braised with rosemary and white wine and no tomatoes (I highly recommend it), and the excellent straccetti, paper thin slices of beef very quickly sautéed and served with wild rucola (arugula) salad. Though the menu offers English translations, the “in” crowd is totally Italian. By the way, “Oio” is the nickname of the chef/owner. He’s big man, so he’s called Olly, after Oliver Hardy. He pops out of his small kitchen once in a while, to greet regulars and friends. It is his fabulously brassy wife who runs the dining room with skill.
Felice
Via Mastro Giorgio 29
Tel. 06 574 6800
Traditional Roman-style trattoria - the owner might be a bit on the grumpy side but the food is delicious and home made.
Remo
Piazza Santa Matria Liberatrice 44
Tel. 06 574 6270
The best place in town for Pizza Romana - and it's in Testaccio, the city's hottest night spot, so you can bar-hop afterwards.
Volpetti
Via Marmorata 47
Tel. 06 574 2352
Renowned delicatessen selling cheeses, hams, stuffed savoury cakes, pizzas and breads from Genzano and Altamura.< xml="true" ns="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" prefix="o" namespace="">
Tuttifrutti
Via Luca della Robbia 3A
Behind an anonymous frosted-glass door, this trattoria is Testaccio’s best-value dining experience. Michele guides you through a changing menu of creative pan-Italian fare, which might include fusilli with sun-dried tomatoes, pecorino, bacon and pine nuts and then baked lamb with potatoes and rosemary. There are always a few veggie options and the wine is excellently priced. Beware: Tuttifrutti sometimes closes on a Monday
Tallusa
Via Beniamino Franklin 11
Always packed, this tiny eat-in or take-away joint specialises in southern and eastern Mediterranean cuisine – ranging from Sicilian specialities to felafel and a full range of Lebanese-style mezzes, served with pitta bread. Very friendly, and very cheap
Zampagna
Via Ostiense 179
This is basic Roman cooking as it once was, with filling dishes for the confirmed carnivore. Primi include spaghetti alla carbonara or tagliatelle alla gricia (with bacon and pecorino cheese), while most of the second courses are served swimming in the thick house sugo (tomato sauce). Service is brisk.
L’Oasi della Birra
Piazza Testaccio
The ‘Oasis of Beer’ has over 500 brews on offer, including beers from award-winning Italian micro-breweries. The selection of wines by the bottle is almost as impressive. Food ranges from snacks (crostini, bruschette, a well-stocked cheese board) to full-scale meals with a Teutonic slant.
Il Seme e la Foglia
Via Galvani 18
This lively daytime snack bar and evening pre-club stop is always packed with students from the music school opposite. At midday there’s generally a pasta dish, plus large salads (around €6) and creative filled rolls.
